Day 3

The Tornado pattern in Monreale

So today I went to Monreale, the famous cathedral built by Normans and inspired by their Arab neighbours. First of all I had to manoeuvre the Palermo bus system. I did my research and had to buy a ticket from the tobacconist (which I had  previously had a lot of issues with as this was also where you were suppose to get stamps and turned out this was no longer the case! I got them from tourist shops and they are GPS tracked now!) Anyway the Tobacconist by The Coffee bar did sell bus tickets so I got one and headed to the far side of Piazza Indipendenza for the Monreale bus which I am glad I did because when it went around the corner to the near side the bus was over run!!! Don't forget to validate your ticket or you have to pay a fine. Like a london bus on tube strike day. I had a seat so phew! The bus journey isn't long and terminates at Monreale. I headed up the hill to the Cathedral which is free and passed the inspection for appropriate clothing (no bear shoulders). I have seen alot of gilded Cathedrals but this is the one I believe inspired  them and it is beautifully preserved. I paid to see the beautiful Baroque side chapel, museum and roof access. The roof was less easy to access then at the Cathedral in Palermo as the route was narrow but free flow so you had to wait in a little groove for other people to pass. Which was annoying. The side chapel was beautiful worth a look, baroque personified. The museum ticket gives you access to the toilet for 'free'. 

I then went to the Cloister (Free with a ICOM card) and admired the interesting pillars and the nice fountain. When I left I headed to the bus stop as I hoped to go to the Cappuccini catacombs but when I got the bus stop it was empty and when I went to read the sign I thought the - meant that is how long the journey took!! I was a little worried I was now 'stuck' in Monreale until 13.15 (it was now 10.45) but I walked around a bit looking for some more information (and brought two more bus tickets) but when I went back to Cathedral to see if they could help I checked the information on my phone and confirmed that the next bus was soon and when I headed back to the bus stop there were people there. The bus came soon after and we headed back to Palermo. I missed the stop for Cappuccini so decided to have much and head back out at 3pm. I stopped for Pane e crocche (don't worry about too many carbohydrates in one meal, in Sicily this is normal) at a place on Vittorio Emanuele. Very yummy, like a chip butty. When 3pm rolled around I headed off to the Cappuccini catacombs, famous for the way they display the bodies of their disciples on the walls of the tombs. It also has a prefectly preserved mummy called Rosalia Lombardo, a 2 year old girl who,until recently looked like she was asleep (but recently she had to be preserved as her skin was starting to go pink). I love things like this because the way people honour death is fascinating and unique. I went for the bodies but stayed for the amazing insight in the fashions of 1850's. People were buried in their Sunday best so to see people of different classes in outfits that range from bustles to peasants outfits that haven't changed for hundreds of years. I think the coffin that sticks the most in my mind is the soldier (possibly French Bourbon) who is all tucked up in a blanket. It felt just like what a mother would do for her son. Beautiful. 

I was really tired at this point and aware that I was missing out on the famous Sicilian street food so decided to have a night in. I stopped at a mini mart and brought wine and chocolate before heading to Panificio for Sfincione (sicilian style pizza - like focaccia with tomato sauce) and a pistachio brioche. Yummy!